The Southern-Most Rugby Game in the World

[Written Sunday Jan 10]

The posters were everywhere - Mt Terror v.s. Scott's Base. Wait, rugby in Antarctica? Snow for a playing field? Team uniforms? Actual rugby goal posts? No problem mate - let's play!

But first, more penguins! This morning, there was a "penguin tour" Unfortunately by the time that I went to the board to sign up for it, the sign-up sheet was gone. So I just dressed anyway and went out to the meeting place just in case there was extra room. There was.

We drove back out on the road going to Pygasis airport about 20 min onto the ice shelf, and the 20 of us unloaded. A group of 4 emperor penguins was standing about 100 feet away. They were molting, and had apparently been there for 4 days without moving. What impressive animals - way out in the middle of the snow just standing. It was a stunning day with a blue sky and temperatures around -8 C.

After lunch, I piled into "Ivan the Terrabus" and drove out to the field. Sure enough, there was a full rugby field complete with goal posts and flags for the sidelines! Mt Terror was the US team and Scott's Base was the New Zealand team, and each had actual team uniforms - red, white and blue for the americans and black for the kiwis. The players all actually had cleats! The kiwi team looked just like the NZ national rugby team, the All Blacks, who are infamous in the world rugby circuit - apparently whenever they don't win it is a bit of an upset!

The fans lined up on both sides - many more American fans than kiwis, simply because the McMurdo (US) base is a lot larger than Scott's (NZ) base. there were large flat-bed trucks on each side to serve as bleachers, and a kiwi announcer talking through a speaker system. The national anthems were played, and and the teams lined up. But before the game began, the NZ team performed the Haka. The Haka is apparently a traditional Mauri dance, one form of which is performed to show that you have no fear going into battle. The All Blacks perform it to intimidate the other team before the game begins. And yes, it is terrifying! Go look for it on youtube.

Then the game began. It was a fun game and they all played pretty seriously. There were a few girls on each team, who whenever they got the ball or went for a tackle the crowd went wild. The first quarter went scoreless, then things went down hill for the good-ol' USA. We ended up losing 18 - 0. Ouch. But what a random, crazy experience! Pictures to follow.

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McMurdo is a funny community. There are several hundred people living here, and many come back year after year. I was talking to a couple of women who are on their 12th season. It is a very community based atmosphere - much more than in the states. I guess this is because people need each other and if you seclude yourself you will probably go crazy. The age demographic is dominated by people in their late 20's or early 30's. There are significantly more blue-collar type workers than scientists at McMurdo; I will be curious to see if that changes at the pole. There are a surprisingly large number of recreational options - cross country skiing, easy snowboarding, hiking, a gym, yoga, a big screen (~100 inch) TV, and ... wait for it ... drum roll ... a climbing wall!! Unfortunately you have to get certified to use it or go with a group and talked to the guy who is in charge of it on the phone then emailed him later and he hasn't gotten back to me about times to go :(

The dining hall seems surreal - it feels just like a dining hall on a college campus. Various different food options and the ever-present cereal bar, and ENDLESS SUPPLY OF MILK, an ice cream machine. The food is quite good. My one complaint is not enough vegetables. Then again, I am in Antarctica, and veggies are expensive to ship here.